So I have been a bit lazy about blog posts over the past few months, one of the main reasons being that I have been struggling with my worst finger injury to date. I have had a variety of climbing injuries over the years, and I always try my best to learn from each injury and to force myself to use the experience to make me a better climber in some way, whether it be because I am more careful in the future to avoid getting the same injury, or focusing on improving a weakness while I rehab my injury. In the past I have been pretty lucky in that I never had to take a long time off of climbing in order to heal an injury… I have always found a way to continue climbing AND heal my injuries at the same time (for example, with previous finger injuries I would just avoid crimps and work on my sloper/pinch technique until my finger felt strong enough again), but this time climbing through my injury felt a bit harder…
I got my finger injury (right ring finger pulley) in the beginning of April after returning from my trip to Bishop (it turns out climbing for 6 days in a row in Bishop, taking one rest day, and then climbing in Leavenworth was NOT a good idea!) and I tried to boulder through it for a couple months until I realized that it was just getting worse… At the beginning of June I decided to try something different and see if I could heal my finger by focusing on rehab hangboarding combined with sport climbing (something I have always been terrible at!). So, I decided to meet some friends in Ten Sleep for the 4th of July and work on healing my finger and trying my hand at sport climbing.
It turns out a couple of weeks of sport climbing in the gym is NOT SUFFICIENT training in order to build a (non-existent) base of endurance. The trip was actually amazingly fun, but that was mainly due to being in a beautiful place surrounded by incredible friends, both new and old, but climbing-wise, it was one of the trips where I only sent the warmups and spent the majority of the time getting pumped off of everything. The good news was that my finger was finally improving!
A couple of my friends were planning on returning to Ten Sleep a month later, so I decided that I would really buckle down and try to get better at sport climbing so I could meet up with them back in Ten Sleep and try and take down some of my MANY unfinished projects from the trip. More to come on my training and how the second trip to Ten Sleep went!!
Cover photo by Kim of @kimstagrahm