So I have been getting my ass kicked outside for the last few months because I have been focusing my attention on trying stuff that is harder than anything I have ever done before. While I spent last year doing a bunch of volume on moderate grades, this year I have made a goal that I would like to send a v9 or v10 outside. It sounds like a great plan, but the thing about getting on boulders that are at your absolute limit is that you rarely get to actually top something out, which can be incredibly demoralizing. I keep having to remind myself that it is all part of the process, and it’s going to take hard work and perseverance to achieve my goal… It’s easy to say, but in the moment it still feels hard to stay psyched when you keep falling off the same moves and constantly questioning whether or not you are actually capable of completing your goal.
From all of this projecting I have been doing, I have been able to pinpoint a couple of weaknesses that have been holding me back: 1) power endurance – for some reason my brain and muscles seem to just shut down if I get any amount of pump and I am not able to push through, I have been working on this in my training and have seen improvement, but it’s something I have to continue to work on… 2) thrutchy throw moves – these have been pretty consistently shutting me down on a variety of things I have been trying lately, but I feel that practicing these moves, even though I have been failing, has taught me a little more about how to approach it.
Photo Cred: Greg Orlov
This last weekend, I went out climbing in Leavenworth and I decided to take a step back from working stuff that is feeling slightly beyond my reach at the moment, and find some stuff that seemed a bit more attainable.. I worked quite a bit on a problem called Kobe Tai, and was able to do the moves pretty quickly, but unfortunately the power-endurance factor seemed to take its toll. Still, getting on a climb where I was actually able to do all the moves felt refreshing and right now I am trying to take the wins where I can get them. At the end of the weekend I decided to try my hand at another 8 that I had looked at a couple years back (and could do zero of the moves) called Scrambled Eggs. The crux of the climb is a thrutchy throw to a bad sloper over the lip, and to my surprise, I was able to do it! Within a fairly short session I was able to send the climb, which felt much needed after being thrown off of boulders for months on end. I also felt that by working on those harder “thrutchy throws” on my projects, my body was able to figure out how to do this one, which was slightly easier than what I’ve been working on.
Now, I have a new training plan from Kris Peters and I will be back to training/projecting and probably not sending any boulders for awhile. It is nice to downgrade every once in awhile though and actually get to see the progress!!