Trip Report: Joe’s Valley

So I just got back from a 5 day trip to Joe’s Valley, Utah and I am already wanting to plan another trip! This place is just amazing and there is so much there that I feel that I haven’t even scratched the surface even though I’ve been there about half a dozen times now. This trip was made even more magical because of the great people I was surrounded with! I got to catch up with some old friends, hangout with some new friends, and enjoy another incredible trip  with my husband and our favorite friends/travel buddies.

The last few trips I have taken have had a couple things in common, they have been short trips and I have had my sights on getting on some hard stuff that will really push me to my limits… The hard thing with projecting on a trip, especially a short one, is that if you don’t send, you walk away empty handed… This time, however, I was able to strike a good balance of working on hard stuff, and also making time to get on some moderates so that I actually got to top out a few boulders (which is good for the soul).

The main thing I had my eye on was a problem called Hooters (v9). It is essentially a two move problem where the crux is a hard dynamic cross move off of a weird left hand nub-crimp. I had never tried it before (or seen it in person), but I watched some videos and it looked like something I might be able to do. The issue with this problem is that it bakes in the sun most of the day, so the only time it’s really workable is early in the morning or in the late afternoon. I first tried this problem on day 2 of my trip, and when I first tried the moves it felt pretty impossible. The start holds were really small, the move into the left crimp felt hard, and then once I got to the left hand crimp it felt impossible to throw off of… After a little bit of time though (and a bit of frustration), things started to come together. I got the first move dialed and was able to start making some efforts at the crux cross move. I only was able to get on it a couple times during the trip, and I didn’t walk away with a send, but it felt good to try hard and now I’m motivated to train that type of movement and hopefully come back and send next time!

Meanwhile, I was able to find some time to climb with my favorite people and tick off a few new ones in Joe’s, including a flash of Big Cheesy (v5), SPAM (v7) (after falling off the topout approximately 7 times!), a flash of the very un-classic Cue Ball (v6), and Porcini or Portobello (v7). I would definitely say that taking some time away from projecting at my limit was definitely a nice break, and it was great to walk away with a couple of consolation prizes.

Toping out SPAM (v7).

Photo Cred: Greg Orlov

It was also quite incredible to be surrounded by so many amazing people who are psyched on climbing and just crushing it on the rocks and in life. Now that I am back home, I am ready for a little bit of rest and then I will be starting another training plan with Kris Peters. I will let you know how it goes!


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